Showing posts with label mary katrantzou. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mary katrantzou. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

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TRENDING: ANY DRESS AS LONG AS IT'S RED

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large.

London Fashion Week is just about over for another season- it's Menswear day tomorrow. The FashEd and I are back at our desks, drinking our first decent cup of tea for days AND chatting about what we need to tell you about AW12. We've got lots up our sleeves, but one of my personal fashion week obsessions has been The Red Dress.

I'm not going to say anything stupid like 'the LRD is the new LBD' but I definitely feel like a red dress might be an important part of our wardrobe next Autumn. These are my stand out red dresses from LFW AW12... from the brightest scarlett through to the most sumptuous dark blood.

Overblown peonies at Jonathan Saunders

Sheer with leather trim at Christopher Kane 

Typewriters, flowers... and more at Mary Katrantzou

Embossed velvet at McQ Alexander McQueen

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

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HOW NEWGEN TOPSHOP T-SHIRTS HELPED SAVE LONDON FASHION WEEK

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

When I first started out in this career in 1996 Topshop wasn't the fashion hero it is today. Designers moaned about how high street stores like Topshop copied their ideas without paying for them. And they were right to moan. High street stores did copy, often brazenly. For designers, the high street was the Big Bad Wolf come to gobble them up.

Back in 1998 two visionary women working at Topshop decided to see if they could reverse the dynamic. Jane Shepherdson, then Brand Director of the store (now CEO of Whistles) and Sarah Mower MBE, esteemed American Vogue fashion critic and nowAmbassador for Emerging Talent for the BFC was then Fashion Director of Arcadia Group. They had the bright idea to invite designers to collaborate with the store, giving them the opportunity to reach new consumers and make money to help grow their businesses. Topshop also part sponsored their catwalk shows.

"Young designers had zero tolerance of the high street and it was my mission to make sure that [if they collaborated with Topshop] they wouldn't be raped [by the experience]. Over  my dead body," Sarah Mower, told me this morning. "Among the first designers we worked with were Hussein Chalayan and Clements Ribeiro.  We had a dream that London would become the world number one centre for emerging talent. Today when I look at the number of people that have come though NewGen, like Christopher Kane, Erdem and Jonathan Saunders, I feel we have achieved that."

Spookily enough, while researching further into this story I came across a piece I wrote in 1998 in the Independent about the advent of Topshop's work with young designers. (I worked at the Indy as fashion writer from 1996-1999.)

In 2002, seeing further mileage (and now doubt enjoying its rehabilitated image as the saviour of young designers, rather than the usurper) Topshop began its headline sponsorship of the NEWGEN program. Today it not only sponsors NewGen, but also Fashion East and it has created the Topshop Show Space at London Fashion Week, which offers a free venue and production for the hottest young British designers. This brings us neatly to the photos you see here, the store's way of celebrating their 10 years of supporting NewGen.

On February 17th on the first day of London Fashion Week, Topshop owner Philip Green is scheduled to do a presentation that will outline his plans for his next ten years of fashion industry support.  Also on the 17th these T-shirts launch in-store and online at topshop.com. In the meantime enjoy 10 of the 20 £30 T-shirts shot by Scott Trindle on a selection of new models (all profits go to homeless charity Centrepoint) and decide which one/s you want to get your hands on. I love the Erdem, Chris Kane and Mary Katrantzou tees... What about you? You can catch the other 10 T's in this weekend's edition of The Times.



                                                                        Francesca wearing JW Anderson


Ashleigh wearing Erdem

Mia wears Marios Schwab
Grace wears Christopher Kane


Georgina wears Jonathan Saunders
Sara wears Peter Jensen 

Olga wears Meadham Kirchhoff
Agnes wears Holly Fulton

Natasha wears Mary Katrantzou


Jaz wears Roksanda Ilincic

Thursday, February 2, 2012

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BAG MAD

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

For most girls, being without your handbag is like Karl Lagerfeld being without his gloves. Wrong and, quite frankly, disquieting.  Every day, I haul around books, magazines, diaries, make-up and don't use half of it but just feel much safer having it all about my person. It's all there just in case who-knows-what-happens, suddenly requiring me to produce 4 pens, a pad of post-its and 16 paracetamol. Seeing as  my life is kept in my handbag, it would be really bothersome to be packing and unpacking it every night, which is why mine is classic, neutral (to go with any outfit) and made from tough leather. I reckon this is why lots of girls bags are sort of boring. I was fine with this until now, but two big name bag collaborations are making me think that the contents of my bag might appreciate a new, much snazzier home.


Anselm Reyle's collection for Dior (images courtesy of Dior)
First up is Anselm Reyle's collection for Dior. The Berlin-based artist has taken some of Dior's classic shapes, like the Lady and splashed them with super bright prints as well as graphic stitching and quilting.

Anselm Reyle working on his Dior collection
Reyle explains his approach like this...

'I like working on the Lady Dior handbag. Most of my work builds on objects that already exist, which I then transform. For this project I did it the same way. I decided to focus on the classical bags of the Dior label'
An example of Anselm Reyle's work, from www.contemporaryartdaily.com
About his art, Reyle has said that it is about 'taking a stereotype to breathe new life into it'. Of course, this is not the first time that an artist has put their stamp on a classic shape at a design house- think Vuitton's Murakami and Sprouse projects for starters. However, with no big name at Dior right now an artist collaboration like this provides a clear creative signature in the interlude; Bill Gaytten might be in place but the collections he's produced thus far mostly take us back to the origins of the house rather than thinking about NOW. In a small way, it is Reyle who is breathing the life into Dior at the moment. He's also worked with Dior on a beauty line which works with the same themes and colours as the bags.




Second on the new bright bag scene is Mary Katrantzou's collaboration with French bag maker, Longchamp. This is a pretty genius move on their part to bring a much needed new visual to a brand which over here, is usually seen on the arm a certain kind of classic looking lady, and sometimes her slightly too blonde haired/ fake tanned daughter. I see virtually every other woman carrying one in the street when I go to France too. So, the partnership with print genius Katrantzou takes Longchamp to a whole new fashion, rather than simply practical, level. The lucky FashEd has been carrying hers for a while now and it looks amazing; the shapes have been updated but are still chic and close to the brand's identity but they are majorly pepped up by the printed exterior. The bags are based around an 'East meets West' theme- the balloons and temple motifs in super bright colours bringing that Eastern element.
Longchamp x Mary Katrantzou (all images from www.colette.fr)


Mary working on her designs


Balloons and blossoms make the classic Longchamp bag a whole lot more exciting

Love the rope handle- a perfect holiday bag. 

Mary's prints on the catwalk, from SS12 (www.catwalking.com)

If Reyle and Katrantzou can't convince us to ditch the safe, everyday classic and pack a little colourful punch into our bags for Spring, what else possibly could?

Anselm Reyle for Dior bags are available now, until March in Dior boutiques and concessions worldwide. 

Mary Katrantzou for Longchamp bags are available here at Longchamp.com and in Longchamp stores. Prices start at £94

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

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THE BRITISH FASHION AWARDS.... CANDID CAMERA

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large
I've gathered up some of the pictures which guests were tweeting and tumbling as a bit of change from the night's official pictures.

There also are a few videos from the night's proceedings. If you weren't there then this is surely this is the next best thing?!

Abbey Clancy with Kristen McMenamy(from LOVE magazine's twitter)
Model of the Year, Stella Tennant, with Kristen (from LOVE magazine twitter)

British Style Award winner Alexa Chung, in Christopher Kane (from Net-a-Porter tumblr)

Amber Le Bon in Peter Pilotto *jelz* (from net-a-porter tumblr)

Caroline Sieber's shoes- pretty sure they're Charlotte Olympia (from Net-a-Porter's twitter)

Christopher Kane, winner of the New Establishment Award (and soon to be Uncle to sister and business partner Tammy's new baby) from Net-a-Porter's tumblr
Chris Kane accepts his New Establishment Award....

                                               




Daphne Guinness in Gareth Pugh (from Grazia's twitter feed)
David Gandy chats in the Net-a-Porter lounge (from net-a-porter tumblr)

Kate Moss with Sam Gainsbury, to whom she presented the
 Isabella Blow Fashion Creator award

Kate on stage (from Laura Craik's twitter)
Fashion blondies, Poppy Delevigne and British Fashion Cultural Ambassador,
Laura Bailey (from Laura's twitter)

The 'Loser' table- I can definitely see Paula Reed from Grazia, Jonathan Saunders and
 Kristen McMenamy. Losers indeed! (from LOVE magazine's twitter)

AW, Mary Katrantzou (Emerging Talent winner, yay!) with Alexander Fury from
showstudio.com (@fashedatlarge)
Watch Mary winning...

                                               


Sarah Burton backstage after winning Designer of the Year (Grazia's twitter)

Sarah accepts her award as Sam Cam looks on (from @fashedatlarge)

Watch Sarah collecting her award... 
                                               

Stella looks on as her mate Kate poses (Grazia's twitter)
Stella and Kate (BritFashAwards twitter)
Watch Stella getting her award...
                                               


You can watch all the event highlights here:

                                               

And the winners were:


DESIGNER OF THE YEAR - Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen

DESIGNER BRAND - Victoria Beckham

RED CARPET AWARD - Stella McCartney

ACCESSORY DESIGNER - Charlotte Olympia

MODEL - Stella Tennant

BRITISH STYLE AWARD - Alexa Chung

MENSWEAR DESIGNER - Kim Jones

EMERGING TALENT AWARD - ACCESSORIES - Tabitha Simmons

EMERGING TALENT AWARD - MENSWEAR - Christopher Raeburn

ISABELLA BLOW AWARD FOR FASHION CREATOR - Sam Gainsbury

NEW ESTABLISHMENT AWARD - Christopher Kane

BFC OUTSTANDING ACHIEVEMENT IN FASHION - Paul Smith

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

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GIRL CRUSH: MARY KATRANTZOU

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Today is 'We <3 Mary' day here at FEAL HQ- last night I was lucky enough to meet the fabulous Greek designer herself at an event hosted by My Daily. This morning, the FashEd and I have been singing the praises of her bubbly, all-embracing approach to interacting with her fans, as well as her talent for combining print and shape in ever more visionary ways. Basically, Mary Katrantzou is our new girl crush because she can be a consumately professional design extraordinaire and a really nice person all at the same time! In this spirit, Mary has joined My Daily as a Contributing Editor; alongside her avid tweeting and enthusiasm to build the best possible website this makes her one of the most web savvy, and accessible, young designers out there.

Me, the Fashion Junior, with Mary Katrantzou
 MyDaily editor Libby interviewed Mary last night and they covered everything from Mary's switch from studying Archtitecture in the US to Textile Design in London to the difference between a size 10 Mary dress and a size 14 ('the bigger the lady, the more print she gets'). Mary had plenty of snippets to divulge about how her business will grow in the future. Next June, she is hoping to launch her first pre-collection. She also wants to respond to all the interest men have shown in her designs- her SS12 blazer has been a popular order from the boys- by launching her own men's line in time. Bigger ambitions include a stand alone store in the middle of London, in a space which she can change all the time to suit the prevailing themes of her designs.
This blazer was inspired by simple Helmut Lang shapes from the 90s (image from catwalking.com)
Actually, Mary is a big fan of London. She claims that she would not be in fashion at all if it weren't for the world-renowned MA course at Central Saint Martins; she was tempted to stick to Textile Design but couldn't forego the opportunity to study under the guidance of Professor Louise Wilson whom she says 'gave me the confidence to talk about my work and forced me to develop a signature'. Mary was adamant that she'll be staying in London and showing her work in the young design context of London Fashion Week rather than trying to compete with bigger labels in other cities.
The final look from Mary Katrantzou SS12- The shape of a flower was the silhoutte which underpinned this collection (image from catwalking.com)
After the interview, I asked Mary how she was feeling about the timing clash of London and Milan fashion weeks in February. She acknowledged that it would be difficult but her spin made me think about situation differently. From a buyer's perspective, she suggests, London designers are currently among the most attractive because they pose less risk and can be more flexible than big, well-established labels. In the current economic climate, in which retail is taking quite a bashing, buyers like the fact that they can negotiate more on delivery times and minimum orders with the smaller labels, many of which are based in London. Crucially, their commerciality and growing reputation as exciting designers mean it's not a compromise for customers. Mary was also quick to point out that her designs and those of her peers are frequently being included in big editorial shoots around the world. The Katrantzou show is usually scheduled for the Tuesday of fashion week, by which time 'all the models have left for Gucci' so facing obstacles because of schedule clashes in nothing new for the Katrantzou team to deal with.
Mary Katrantzou AW11, photographed by Sean and Seng for POP


The FashEd interviewed Mary for the current issue of POP- I've included it here and we defy you not to have developed a full blown girl crush by the time you've finished. When I mentioned to Mary that I worked with Melanie, she was full of love for this piece. My Daily is also offering the chance to win a dress from Mary's SS12 collection- and if you're not a lucky winner and budgets don't stretch to the real Mary thing, you only have to hold out until February when her capsule collection for Topshop drops, hurrah!


Thursday, October 27, 2011

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HELLO TOPSHOP SS12!

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

A panoramic of TopShop's silky scarf print bombers and lingerie looks for next season

The amazing prototype of Mary Katrantzou's first TopShop dress collection. How alike is this to her runway version?? It will retail for £350.

Pretty pastel and leather sporty mesh for TopShop SS12 shoes

Its been a long day attending press days all over London and meeting deadlines. I've got two Grazia stories running next week, so the proofs had to be triple checked, and we're also brainstorming for the next issue of POP. So here I am at 8.19pm still at my desk eating rubbery cashew nuts because I am starving.

The TopShop press day today was held at the Rebecca Hossack gallery just off Fitzroy Square in London. It was the first time ever the brand has broken away from showing with the rest of Arcadia Group with a solo presentation. Their way of asserting their fashion brand status, I guess. Topshop was, afterall, the most tweeted about label during London Fashion Week after Burberry.  It was a street-chic showing - all very Versace and 90s Sportwear, and the first of ex Vogue Senior Fashion Editor Kate Phelan in her new role as Creative Direector.

I expected Salt n Pepa "Push It" to bust out of the speakers while I mosied my way through the silky bomber jackets, pastel pink jeans and silver Y-back tanks but got Neneh Cherry "Manchild" instead. British fashion is having a major 90s moment at street level. I'm not sure who to blame for this, though I'm beginning to suspect Ayishat and Louize (Cher Lloyd's stylists) will be all over this range like a rash. What I saw available at TopShop was so very 90s took me back to my schooldays of wearing hoodies, high-tops and pastel yellow jeans.  #Nostalgia

Oh and one more thing: last week I raised the issue of whether we could/should wear hi-top wedge trainers, and suggested the high-street got on the job because the Isabel Marant Bekket has sold out gllobally, and lookie here at what Toppers has in store for us...Great minds, hey?

from my Twitter feed @fashedatlarge

All photos: Fashion Editor at Large